The short answer
Buying floorboards in Australia comes down to eight decisions: construction (solid, engineered, hybrid or laminate), species, grade, pattern, board size, subfloor, finish and budget. Get the subfloor and moisture right first, because they decide what you can install; then choose the look and finish that suit your home and how long you'll stay.
This guide is written for homeowners comparing options and for retailers and installers who want a plain-English reference to share with clients. Timbo is a Melbourne-based trade supplier of Prime grade European solid oak floorboards and parquet, so where something depends on a specific product, adhesive or finish we say so and point you to the people who can confirm it.
1. Choose the construction: solid, engineered, hybrid or laminate
Solid floorboards are milled from one piece of timber; engineered boards have a real timber wear layer bonded to a core; hybrid and laminate are not timber on the surface – they use a printed image under a protective layer. That one difference drives how long the floor lasts, how often it can be sanded and what it costs.
| Type | What it is | Can it be sanded? | Typical use | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Solid timber | Timber right through (e.g. 18mm solid oak) | Yes, many times over its life | Long-term homes, heritage and premium interiors, parquet | Moves more with humidity; needs careful moisture control and expansion allowance |
| Engineered timber | Hardwood top layer on plywood or similar core | Depends on wear-layer thickness – usually fewer times than solid | Apartments, slab renovations, underfloor heating | Thin wear layers limit refinishing; quality of core varies |
| Hybrid / SPC | Rigid core with printed décor and wear layer | No | Budget renovations, rentals, wet-adjacent areas (check maker) | Not real timber; can't be refinished |
| Laminate | Fibreboard core with printed décor | No | Low-cost floors, light-use rooms | Not real timber; sensitive to water at joints |
European oak sold in Queensland is described as "predominantly engineered" (Wood Floor Business), and engineered oak is often preferred for apartments, renovations and slab installations (ArchiPro). Solid oak earns its place where you want maximum sanding life and the feel of a genuinely solid floor. For a detailed comparison, see solid vs engineered oak.
There is no credible public split of solid vs engineered vs hybrid vs laminate sales in Australia, so be sceptical of any market-share percentages you see quoted.
2. Choose a species
Species sets colour, grain and hardness. Australian hardwoods such as spotted gum and blackbutt are harder; European oak is softer but prized for its even grain, stability in parquet formats and how well it takes stains, oils and smoked or limed finishes.
| Species | Janka hardness (approx.) | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Spotted gum | ~11 kN | Strong colour variation, wavy grain |
| Blackbutt | ~9.1 kN | Pale blonde to light brown |
| Jarrah | ~8.5 kN | Deep red-brown |
| Tasmanian oak | 5.5–7 kN | Pale, straw to pinkish |
| European oak | ~4.2–6.1 kN | Even grain, warm brown, takes finishes well |
Hardness figures from PFC and Flooring Expert. Janka measures the force needed to press a steel ball into the timber – a higher number means more dent resistance, but the finish and maintenance matter just as much day to day. Compare species side by side before you choose, particularly if you have large dogs or high-traffic areas.
Provenance is worth asking about too. China supplies about 43% of Australia's engineered wood product imports (Wood Central), so if European-made product matters to you, ask your supplier where the boards were milled.
3. Understand grades
A grade describes how the timber looks – knots, colour variation and sapwood – not how strong it is. For European oak, mills use names such as Prime, Select, Natur and Rustic, and the exact limits vary from mill to mill.
| Grade (typical names) | Look |
|---|---|
| Prime | Cleanest, most even colour, few and small knots |
| Select | Small knots and some colour variation |
| Natur / Natural | More knots and visible character |
| Rustic | Large knots, filled splits, strong colour variation |
Australian hardwoods are graded under AS 2796 (Select, Standard/Medium Feature, High Feature), which does not grade European oak (ATFA). Read the oak flooring grades guide and always look at real samples before you commit.
4. Pick a pattern and board size
Straight-laid boards are the simplest and cheapest to install; parquet patterns such as herringbone and chevron cost more to lay but give a distinctive, architectural floor.
- Straight boards – long boards laid parallel. Wider boards make a room feel calmer; narrower boards feel more traditional.
- Herringbone – rectangular blocks at 90° so the end of one block meets the side of the next. Needs left- and right-hand blocks.
- Chevron – blocks with angled ends that meet in a continuous V.
- Other parquet – basket weave, Versailles panels, borders and double or triple herringbone.
Timbo's herringbone comes in two block sizes: 710 × 123 × 18mm and 820 × 123 × 18mm. The longer block gives a bolder zigzag suited to large open-plan rooms. See parquet patterns for the full range of layouts.
Thickness matters for solid floors. An 18mm solid block has far more sandable timber above the tongue than a thin engineered wear layer, which is why solid parquet can be refinished many times. Thickness also affects floor build-up height at doorways, thresholds and stair nosings – check these before ordering.
5. Check the subfloor first
The subfloor decides the installation method, and most floorboard problems start here. In Australia you'll usually be laying over a concrete slab, timber joists or a sheet (plywood/particleboard) subfloor.
| Subfloor | Common method | Key checks |
|---|---|---|
| Concrete slab | Direct-glue with flooring adhesive, often with a moisture barrier or moisture-barrier adhesive | Flatness (commonly within ~3mm under a 3m straightedge), slab moisture, surface strength and cleanliness |
| Plywood / sheet | Glue and/or secret-fix | Sheet fixing, flatness, moisture |
| Joists (timber or steel) | Strip boards nailed to joists (not parquet) | Ventilation, joist spacing, moisture in sub-floor space |
For slabs, the adhesive manufacturer's moisture limits and test method govern (Bowens). Read installing parquet over a concrete slab.
Moisture is the other big one. Australian interiors typically sit at about 8–14% equilibrium moisture content (EMC), and flooring should be installed within about ±2% of the EMC it will reach in service (WoodSolutions). See acclimatising oak flooring.
If you have or plan underfloor heating, raise it before you choose a product: engineered timber is generally preferred, and surface temperatures are commonly limited to about 27°C (Solid Wood Flooring Co).
6. Choose a finish
Timber floors are finished with either a penetrating oil (including hardwax oils) or a surface coating such as polyurethane. Oil gives a natural, matt look and can be spot-repaired; polyurethane gives a harder-wearing film that needs a full recoat when worn.
| Oil / hardwax oil | Polyurethane (water- or solvent-based) | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Natural, low sheen | Matt to gloss, more "coated" |
| Repairs | Local touch-ups usually possible | Usually whole-room recoat |
| Maintenance | Regular re-oiling/maintenance products | Less frequent, but bigger job |
Floors can be bought prefinished (coated at the factory) or raw (unfinished) and sanded and coated on site. Raw floors let you choose any colour or sheen and get a seamless finish across the room. Whether a Timbo batch is supplied raw or pre-finished: ask Timbo. More in oil vs polyurethane.
7. Budget with real numbers
Expect to pay roughly $55–$120/m² installed for hybrid, $120–$367/m² installed for solid Australian hardwood, and $160–$320/m² installed for engineered oak herringbone (AUD incl. GST). The ranges below are published by Australian retailers and installers in 2026; your quote depends on site preparation, pattern, access, finish and city.
| Item | Supply /m² | Installed /m² | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raw solid French oak herringbone 710 × 126 × 18mm | $94.99 (retail) | – | SET Timber Supplies |
| Engineered oak herringbone | ~$79–$160 | $160–$320 | Skov, Imperial |
| Herringbone labour only | – | $60–$100 standard; $90–$120+ complex | The Flooring Guys |
| Solid Australian hardwood (spotted gum, blackbutt) | $55–$130 | $120–$367 by city | D&G, HH Timber |
| Hybrid / SPC | – | $55–$120 | WhatsTheDamage |
| Sanding and coating | – | $30–$70 | WhatsTheDamage |
All figures are AUD including 10% GST. Don't forget the extras: slab grinding or levelling, moisture barrier, adhesive, skirting/scotia, thresholds, stair nosings, furniture moving and removal of old flooring. For a deeper breakdown, see timber flooring cost in Australia.
8. Work out how much to order
Measure each room, add a waste allowance, then divide by the box coverage and round up. Straight boards need less waste than patterned floors; herringbone and chevron commonly need about 10–15% extra as a rule of thumb. For Timbo's 710mm herringbone, a box of 16 blocks covers 16 × 0.710 × 0.123 = 1.397 m². For the 820mm size, ask Timbo for current box coverage. See the herringbone layout and waste guide.
Common buying mistakes
The most expensive mistakes are made before the floor arrives: choosing a product the subfloor can't support, under-ordering, and comparing quotes that don't include the same work.
| Mistake | Why it hurts | Avoid it by |
|---|---|---|
| Choosing the look before checking the subfloor | Product may not suit a damp slab or heating | Test the slab and confirm heating first |
| Judging grade from a photo | Screens and lighting change colour and character | View a real sample in the room's light |
| Comparing supply-only with installed prices | Quotes look cheaper than they are | Ask for itemised quotes with GST stated |
| Ordering exactly the floor area | Run out mid-job; next batch may not match | Add a waste allowance and spares |
| Skipping moisture checks to save time | Gaps, cupping or lifting later | Ask the installer to record readings |
| Choosing a finish without seeing it on oak | Colour surprises after coating | Ask for a sample board or test patch |
| Laying before wet trades finish | Timber absorbs moisture, then shrinks | Programme the floor after plaster and paint dry |
For retailers and installers, a written specification that records product, batch, grade, finish, adhesive system, moisture readings and waste allowance protects both you and the client.
Floorboard buying checklist
Take this to your flooring retailer or installer:
- Subfloor – What is it? Has the slab been tested for moisture and checked for flatness?
- Heating – Is there or will there be underfloor heating? Is the product approved for it?
- Construction – Solid or engineered (and what wear-layer thickness)? Or hybrid/laminate?
- Species and origin – Which species, and where was it milled?
- Grade – Which grade name, and have you seen a full-size sample of that grade?
- Pattern and size – Straight, herringbone or chevron; board or block dimensions; border?
- Finish – Raw or prefinished? Oil, hardwax oil or polyurethane? Sheen level?
- Moisture – Will the installer measure board and site moisture before laying?
- Installation method – Which adhesive and moisture barrier? Whose instructions apply?
- Quantity – What waste allowance is included, and how many spare boxes for repairs?
- Quote – Is it itemised (supply, prep, install, finish, extras) and is GST included?
- Care – What cleaning and maintenance products will keep the finish valid?
Where to buy Timbo floorboards
Timbo sells to the trade, not direct to homeowners. Homeowners can find a Timbo partner to supply and install Prime grade European solid oak herringbone and chevron parquet. Flooring retailers, installers, builders and designers can become a Timbo partner for wholesale pricing and free samples.
Sources
- Wood Floor Business – European oak in Australia
- ArchiPro – Oak timber flooring
- Wood Central – EWP timber imports
- PFC – Janka rating and floor durability
- Flooring Expert – European oak vs Australian hardwood
- ATFA – Hardwood flooring grades
- WoodSolutions – Moisture guide
- Bowens – Hardwood timber flooring
- The Solid Wood Flooring Company – Underfloor heating
- SET Timber Supplies – Raw herringbone French oak
- Skov – Herringbone flooring prices
- Imperial Flooring – Herringbone cost guide 2026
- The Flooring Guys – Herringbone flooring cost
- D&G Floors – Spotted gum flooring
- HH Timber Floors – Timber flooring cost Sydney
- WhatsTheDamage – Flooring cost
- WhatsTheDamage – Timber floor sanding cost
Frequently asked questions
What should I decide first when buying floorboards?
Start with the subfloor and moisture, not the look. Whether you have a concrete slab, joists or sheet flooring – and whether there is underfloor heating – decides which products and installation methods are suitable. Then choose construction, species, grade, pattern and finish.
Do wider floorboards move more than narrow ones?
Each board moves in proportion to its width, so a wide solid board shows its seasonal movement as fewer, larger gaps than several narrow boards would. Engineered construction reduces this. Good acclimatisation matters more as boards get wider. Short parquet blocks spread movement across many joints.
What extra costs should I budget for beyond the floorboards?
Allow for removing old flooring, slab grinding or levelling, moisture barrier and adhesive, skirting or scotia, thresholds and trims, stair nosings, furniture moving, and sanding and coating if the floor is raw. Ask for an itemised quote that states whether GST is included.
Do I need to buy extra floorboards for waste?
Yes. Every floor needs extra for offcuts, damaged ends and future repairs. Straight-laid boards need less than patterned floors; herringbone and chevron commonly need about 10–15% extra as a rule of thumb. Your installer sets the final figure after measuring the room.
Why should all my floorboards come from one batch?
Colour, grain and grade vary slightly between production batches. Ordering the whole job – plus spares – from one batch keeps the floor consistent and makes future repairs easier to match.