What are floorboards?
Floorboards are the boards, planks or blocks that form the visible, walk-on surface of a floor. In Australia the word is used loosely for any plank-style floor, but strictly it means timber boards – either solid wood or engineered wood with a real timber surface. Hybrid and laminate "floorboards" look like timber but are made from plastic composites or fibreboard with a printed image layer.
That distinction matters because it decides how long a floor lasts. A solid floorboard is one piece of timber through its full thickness, so when the surface wears it can be sanded back to fresh timber and refinished. A printed floor cannot. Floorboards are also the part of a home buyers see first: real timber floors are a feature in renovation listings, period homes and new builds alike.
Australia and New Zealand share a lot of flooring language, with a few differences. Australians say floorboards, timber flooring and parquetry; New Zealanders tend to say wood flooring or timber flooring (see our wood flooring NZ guide). Whatever you call it, the decisions are the same: what the board is made of, which species, which format, which grade, how it is fixed and how it is finished.
Types of floorboards compared
There are five main types of floorboard sold in Australia and New Zealand. Only solid and engineered floorboards are real timber all the way to the surface; bamboo is a grass product, and hybrid and laminate are timber-look floors.
| Type | What it is | Can it be sanded? | Common installation | Best suited to | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Solid timber | One piece of timber through its full thickness, e.g. 18mm solid oak | Yes, many times over its life | Glued to slab or sheet subfloor; nailed to joists (strip boards) | Long-term homes, period renovations, parquet patterns | Moves with humidity; needs a dry, flat subfloor and correct acclimatisation |
| Engineered timber | A real timber wear layer bonded to a plywood or multi-layer core | Yes, a limited number of times depending on wear layer thickness | Glued or floated | Slabs, apartments, underfloor heating | Thin wear layers limit resanding; core quality varies by maker |
| Hybrid | Rigid core (stone-plastic or wood-plastic composite) with a printed décor layer and wear layer | No | Floated (click-lock) | Budget renovations, rentals, wet-prone areas | Not timber; cannot be refinished; feel and sound differ from timber |
| Laminate | High-density fibreboard core with a photographic décor layer | No | Floated (click-lock) | Low-cost projects | Not timber; edges can swell if water gets in |
| Bamboo | Bamboo strips pressed into boards (horizontal, vertical or strand-woven) | Depends on construction | Glued, floated or nailed | Contemporary interiors | Quality and hardness vary widely by manufacturer |
The most common question is solid vs engineered. Engineered oak is widely preferred for apartments, renovations and slabs (ArchiPro), and for underfloor heating (Solid Wood Flooring Co). Solid wins on lifespan and on how many times it can be renewed. Our solid vs engineered oak comparison goes through both in detail.
Timber species for floorboards
The species decides colour, grain, hardness and how a floor ages. Australian buyers mostly choose between European oak and native hardwoods such as spotted gum, blackbutt, jarrah and Tasmanian oak; in New Zealand, the native rimu is the heritage favourite.
Janka hardness is a measure of how much force it takes to press a steel ball halfway into the timber, reported in Australia in kilonewtons (kN). Higher numbers resist dents better, but Janka is only one factor: finish, maintenance and how a floor is used matter just as much.
| Species | Botanical type | Typical colour | Janka hardness (kN) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| European oak | True oak (Quercus robur, Q. petraea) | Honey to sand, takes stains, smoked and white finishes well | ~4.2–6.1 | Classic parquet timber; even grain suits herringbone and chevron |
| Spotted gum | Australian eucalypt (Corymbia) | Light browns to deep chocolate, wavy grain | ~11 | Very hard; strong natural colour variation |
| Blackbutt | Australian eucalypt | Pale golden to light brown | ~9.1 | Popular in coastal and contemporary homes |
| Jarrah | Western Australian eucalypt | Rich red to deep red-brown | ~8.5 | Traditional in WA and in older homes |
| Tasmanian oak | Australian eucalypt (not a true oak) | Pale straw to pinkish brown | 5.5–7 | Trade name for several eucalypt species |
| Rimu (NZ) | New Zealand native softwood (podocarp) | Red-brown to gold, with figure | Not given in our sources | Heritage NZ floor; new supply is limited |
Janka figures: PFC, Flooring Expert. Values vary with the sample and source.
Why does a softer timber like European oak remain so popular? Because its colour is calm and even, it takes oils, stains, lime-wash and smoked finishes better than most eucalypts, and it is the traditional parquet timber, so herringbone and chevron patterns read cleanly. For a deeper look, read the European oak floorboards profile and our oak flooring guide, which explains why Tasmanian oak is a eucalypt.
Floorboard formats: boards, wide boards and parquet
Format is the shape and size of each piece and how pieces are laid together. Straight boards create a linear floor; parquet (or parquetry) uses shorter blocks laid in a geometric pattern.
| Format | What it looks like | Typical installation | Labour and waste | Timbo range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Straight boards (strip flooring) | Boards laid parallel, end joints staggered | Nailed to joists, glued to slab, or floated (engineered) | Lowest | Ask your partner about straight-board options |
| Wide boards | Wider planks for fewer joints and a calmer look | Usually glued; wide solid boards need a very stable environment | Low to moderate | Ask your partner |
| Herringbone | Square-ended blocks meeting at 90° in a staggered zigzag | Glued down with careful set-out | Higher | Herringbone parquet |
| Chevron | Blocks with angled ends forming a continuous V | Glued down with careful set-out | Higher | Chevron parquet |
| Pattern parquet | Basketweave, squares and other feature designs | Glued down; often bordered | Highest | Pattern parquet |
Herringbone and chevron are the patterns most requested in Australian and New Zealand renovations. Herringbone is a little more forgiving to lay and slightly cheaper; chevron's continuous V is bolder. Pattern floors use more labour and more cutting, so allow for a higher waste factor and a skilled installer. Our parquetry guide covers pattern history, block sizes and restoring old parquetry, and the full solid oak collection shows every Timbo format together.
Floorboard grades
A grade describes how a board looks – the size and number of knots, colour variation, sapwood and other natural features – not how strong it is. Higher grades look cleaner and more uniform; feature grades show more of the tree's character.
| Timber | Grading system | Common grade names |
|---|---|---|
| Australian hardwoods | AS 2796 (ATFA) | Select; Standard / Medium Feature; High Feature |
| European oak | European mill and trade grades (AS 2796 does not apply) | Prime / Select (cleanest); Natur or "character"; Rustic (most features) |
European oak grade names vary between mills, so always compare samples rather than names. Prime grade oak is the cleanest, most uniform appearance, which is why it is favoured for herringbone and chevron: when every block is seen from several angles, an even timber lets the pattern be the feature. Timbo supplies Prime grade European oak only. Read the oak flooring grades guide for definitions of each grade and what to look for in a sample.
Thickness and profiles
Thickness tells you how much wear life a floorboard has; profile is the shape of its edges and how boards join.
- 18mm solid – Timbo's parquet is 18mm solid European oak. Because the timber is the same species all the way through, the floor can be sanded and refinished many times over its life.
- Tongue and groove (T&G) – each piece has a protruding tongue on one edge and a matching groove on the other, so neighbouring pieces lock together and stay level. European solid parquet elements with tongues and grooves are covered by EN 13226 (dataholz).
- Click profiles – used on engineered, hybrid and laminate boards for floating installation.
- Square edge vs bevel – raw boards that will be sanded flat on site are usually square-edged; many pre-finished boards have a small bevel because they cannot be sanded flush after laying.
For engineered boards, ask for the wear layer thickness, not just the total board thickness – it is the wear layer that limits how many times the floor can be resanded. Whether solid parquet is supplied raw or pre-finished changes the installation and finishing process; the raw vs pre-finished guide listed at the end of this page explains the trade-offs.
Installation methods by subfloor
The subfloor decides the installation method. Concrete slabs are now the most common subfloor in new homes – about 92% of new New Zealand houses are built on slab (ArchiPro NZ, citing BRANZ), so direct-stick (glue-down) installation is the usual method for parquet.
| Subfloor | Usual method | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| Concrete slab | Glue-down with flexible flooring adhesive, over a moisture barrier or using a moisture-barrier adhesive | Flatness (roughly within 3mm over 3m) and moisture within the adhesive maker's limits (Bowens); in NZ, BRANZ guidance is ≤75% RH at the slab surface (BRANZ BU644) |
| Joists and bearers (suspended floor) | Solid strip boards are nailed to joists; parquet needs a continuous sheet subfloor (e.g. structural plywood) first | Joist spacing, ventilation and subfloor moisture |
| Sheet subfloor (plywood, particleboard) | Glued, and sometimes also fixed mechanically | Sheets sound, flat and well fixed |
| Existing timber floor | Overlay glued (and sometimes fixed) to the old boards, or remove first | Old boards flat, sound and free of movement |
| Underfloor heating | Usually glued; engineered generally preferred | Floor surface kept to about 27°C maximum with a floor sensor (Solid Wood Flooring Co) |
Timber moves as it gains or loses moisture. Australian interiors typically sit at 8–14% equilibrium moisture content, and flooring should be installed within about ±2% of the moisture content it will live at (WoodSolutions). That is why acclimatisation, expansion gaps and a dry slab matter so much. The step-by-step method is in installing parquet over a concrete slab.
Finishes for timber floorboards
The finish protects the timber and sets the final colour and sheen. The main choice is between a surface coating (polyurethane) and a penetrating oil.
| Finish | Look | Maintenance | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water-based polyurethane | Clear, low-yellowing, matt to gloss | Hard-wearing film; recoat when worn, full sand eventually | Busy family homes, light oak tones |
| Solvent-based polyurethane | Warmer, ambers over time | Very durable film | Traditional looks, high wear |
| Hardwax or penetrating oil | Natural, low-sheen "raw timber" look | Spot-repairable; regular maintenance oiling | Matt Scandinavian and European looks |
| Stains and tints | Darker, greyer or warmer tones | As per the topcoat | Matching joinery or a design scheme |
| White-wash / lime-wash | Pale, Nordic look | As per the topcoat | Light, contemporary interiors |
| Smoked (fumed) | Deep brown, colour through the surface fibres | As per the topcoat | Moody, heritage-inspired schemes; oak only |
The finish also decides slip resistance. Level internal floors are not generally given a mandatory slip rating, but stair treads need P3 (dry) or P4 (wet) under the NCC and AS 4586 (SlipTest). Ask your installer which finishes they recommend and can apply for your rooms.
How much do floorboards cost per m²?
Floorboard prices in Australia range from about $55/m² installed for hybrid to well over $300/m² installed for complex solid timber parquet. The figures below are indicative prices from published 2026 sources, in AUD and including 10% GST unless stated.
| Product | Supply per m² | Installed per m² | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raw solid French oak herringbone, 710 × 126 × 18mm | $94.99 (retail) | – | SET Timber Supplies |
| Engineered oak herringbone | ~$79–$160 | $160–$320 | Skov, Imperial |
| Herringbone installation (labour only) | – | $60–$100 standard; $90–$120+ complex | The Flooring Guys |
| Solid Australian hardwood (spotted gum, blackbutt) | $55–$130 | $120–$367, by city | D&G, HH Timber |
| Hybrid / SPC | – | $55–$120 | WhatsTheDamage |
| Sanding and coating | – | $30–$70 | WhatsTheDamage |
Remember to budget for subfloor preparation, moisture barrier and adhesive, removal of old flooring, skirting and trims, and waste allowance (higher for herringbone and chevron). Raw floors also need sanding and coating on site. Prices in New Zealand are in NZD with 15% GST – see the wood flooring NZ guide. Timbo does not publish retail prices; your partner will quote the supplied and installed price. For more detail, read the timber flooring cost guide.
How to choose floorboards: a checklist
Work through these questions in order – each one narrows the options for the next.
- What is the subfloor? Slab, joists, sheet flooring or an existing floor decides the installation method and whether solid, engineered or floating products suit.
- Which rooms? Living areas, bedrooms and hallways suit any timber; kitchens need a durable finish; wet areas and laundries are usually better in tile.
- Is there underfloor heating? If so, check the product's suitability and the maximum surface temperature.
- What is the climate and building? Coastal humidity, air conditioning and large north-facing glass all affect timber movement.
- Real timber or timber-look? Decide whether you want a floor that can be sanded and renewed (solid or engineered) or a lower-cost replaceable surface (hybrid or laminate).
- Which species and colour? Compare European oak and Australian hardwoods side by side, in your own light.
- Which format? Straight boards, wide boards, herringbone, chevron or pattern parquet.
- Which grade? Prime for a clean, even look; feature grades for character.
- Raw or pre-finished, oil or polyurethane? Decide the finish and who applies it.
- What's the whole budget? Include preparation, adhesive, installation, finishing and waste, not just the boards.
- Who will install it? For parquet, choose an installer with pattern experience and ask to see past jobs.
- Can you see a real sample? Always look at real timber before you commit.
Where to buy Timbo floorboards
Homeowners buy Timbo floorboards through a Timbo partner – a flooring retailer, installer or builder who supplies and installs our European oak. Timbo is a trade supplier and does not sell or install direct.
Our listed partners are currently in Melbourne: Provincial Floors (Pascoe Vale), Brighton Flooring (Bentleigh), No.1 Flooring (Balwyn North), Mr. Floor Melbourne (Thomastown), Starwoods Timber Flooring (Thomastown), Xcell Homes (Clayton South) and Sun Floors (Hoppers Crossing). Timbo is appointing partners in other cities and in New Zealand; if you are outside Melbourne, email partnerships@timbo.com.au and we will connect you with the nearest partner.
For flooring businesses: the Timbo partner program
Flooring retailers, installers, builders, developers, interior designers and architects in Australia and New Zealand can apply to become Timbo partners. It costs nothing to join and the program is non-exclusive.
- Wholesale pricing, unlocked when you accept the partner terms
- Free samples for your showroom and your clients
- Sales and marketing support – product content, specifications, imagery and guides
- A listing in the partner directory, with website enquiries referred to partners
- Quality guarantee
- No container minimums – order from Melbourne stock, with freight quoted per order Australia-wide and to New Zealand
Orders are placed by email purchase order to partnerships@timbo.com.au. Apply online and the team will be in touch.
The Timbo floorboard range
Every Timbo product is Prime grade European solid oak, 18mm thick, tongue and groove.
| Product | Format | Size | Coverage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solid Oak Herringbone Parquet | Herringbone, natural brown | 710 × 123 × 18mm (standard); 820 × 123 × 18mm (large) | 710mm: 16 panels ≈ 1.4 m² per box; 820mm: ask Timbo |
| Solid Oak Chevron Parquet | Continuous V chevron, natural brown | 710 × 123 × 18mm (standard); 820 × 123 × 18mm (large) | Ask Timbo |
| Pattern parquet (incl. Hybrid Oak Timeless Pattern Parquet) | Feature patterns | 15mm patterned oak squares, 450 × 450mm and 800 × 800mm | Ask Timbo |
Whether a particular batch is supplied raw (unfinished) or pre-finished: ask Timbo.
Floorboard guides in this section
Each guide below goes deeper into one part of choosing timber floorboards.
Sources
- ATFA / Floor Choices – Hardwood flooring grades
- PFC – Janka rating and floor durability
- Flooring Expert – European oak vs Australian hardwood
- ArchiPro – Oak timber flooring and Solid vs engineered wood flooring (NZ)
- dataholz – Wood flooring and parquet
- WoodSolutions – Moisture guide
- Bowens – Hardwood timber flooring
- BRANZ – BU644 Solid timber strip flooring on a concrete slab
- The Solid Wood Flooring Company – Underfloor heating
- SlipTest – NCC slip resistance requirements
- SET Timber Supplies – Raw herringbone French oak 710 × 126 × 18mm
- Skov – Herringbone flooring prices Australia; Imperial Flooring – Herringbone flooring cost guide 2026
- The Flooring Guys – Herringbone flooring cost in Australia
- D&G Floors – Spotted gum flooring; HH Timber Floors – Timber flooring cost Sydney
- WhatsTheDamage – Flooring cost and Timber floor sanding cost
Downloads
Frequently asked questions
What are the best floorboards for an Australian home?
There is no single best floorboard: the right choice depends on your subfloor, rooms, climate and budget. Solid timber such as European oak or spotted gum lasts longest because it can be resanded many times, engineered timber suits slabs and apartments, and hybrid suits tight budgets and rentals. Our floorboards buying guide walks through the decision.
Are solid floorboards better than engineered?
Solid floorboards can be sanded and refinished more times over their life, while engineered boards are usually more dimensionally stable and are often preferred over underfloor heating. Both are real timber on the surface. See solid vs engineered oak.
How much do floorboards cost per m² in Australia?
As a guide (incl. GST), solid Australian hardwood costs about $55–$130/m² to supply and $120–$367/m² installed depending on the city, while hybrid costs about $55–$120/m² installed. Raw solid French oak herringbone is listed at about $94.99/m² retail. See the timber flooring cost guide.
Is European oak hard enough for floorboards?
Yes. European oak (Janka ~4.2–6.1 kN) is softer than spotted gum or blackbutt but it is the traditional parquet timber of Europe and has been used for floors there for centuries. A good finish, felt pads and entry mats matter more for everyday wear than a few kN of hardness.
Can floorboards be laid on a concrete slab?
Yes. Solid parquet and engineered boards are commonly glued directly to a flat, dry slab using a moisture barrier or moisture-barrier adhesive. The slab must be flat (roughly within 3mm over 3m) and dry enough for the adhesive maker's limits. Read installing parquet over a concrete slab.
Is Tasmanian oak real oak?
No. Tasmanian oak is a trade name for several Australian eucalypt species; true oaks belong to the genus Quercus. See our oak flooring guide for the differences.
Can I buy Timbo floorboards direct?
No. Timbo is a trade supplier and does not sell or install direct to homeowners. Find a Timbo partner, or email partnerships@timbo.com.au and we will connect you with the nearest one.
What floorboards does Timbo supply?
Prime grade European solid oak parquet, 18mm thick with tongue and groove, in herringbone, chevron and pattern parquet. Whether a given batch is raw or pre-finished: ask Timbo.