The short answer
A raw oak floor is sanded flat with progressively finer abrasives once the adhesive has cured, vacuumed thoroughly, then finished with an oil, hardwax oil or polyurethane system applied to the finish maker's instructions. Expect to pay about $30–$70/m² for sanding and coating (AUD incl. GST) (WhatsTheDamage).
Raw vs prefinished
Raw (unfinished) oak is sanded and finished on site; prefinished oak is coated at the factory and laid ready to use.
| Raw, finished on site | Prefinished | |
|---|---|---|
| Surface | Sanded flat across every joint – perfectly flush | Small bevels or tiny height differences possible |
| Colour and sheen | Any – chosen on site, sample patches possible | Fixed by the factory |
| Programme | Extra days for sanding, coating and curing | Faster |
| Finish seal | Continuous film or oil across joints | Factory finish on each block |
Whether a Timbo batch is supplied raw or pre-finished: ask Timbo. Learn more about raw unfinished oak flooring.
Before you sand
Check that the adhesive has cured, the floor is clean and the room is ready – and plan dust control.
- Confirm cure time on the adhesive data sheet.
- Remove adhesive residue from the face – cured adhesive clogs abrasives and can show through oil finishes.
- Set nails or remove fixings that could damage sanders (for nailed floors).
- Seal off adjoining rooms and protect joinery, skirting and services.
- Decide the finish system first – it sets the final grit and how the surface is prepared.
Sanding sequence for oak parquet
Sand in stages from a coarser grit to a finer one, removing the scratches of each stage before moving on; the finish manufacturer's system sets the final grit.
- Flattening pass. On new parquet, a coarse grit flattens lippage between blocks. On herringbone and chevron, sand diagonally to the blocks or follow the sander maker's guidance for parquet – there's no single "with the grain" direction.
- Intermediate pass(es). Step up in grit without skipping grades, removing all scratches from the previous pass.
- Edges and corners. Use an edger and corner sander to match the main field, then hand-scrape or detail sand.
- Final pass. Many installers finish with a multi-disc or orbital sander to remove directional scratches – especially important under oils and stains.
- Fill if required. Gaps and knots can be filled with a filler compatible with the finish, usually mixed with fine sanding dust from the same floor.
- Vacuum thoroughly. Vacuum and tack the surface before coating; dust trapped in the finish shows.
Finishing options
The main choices are penetrating oil, hardwax oil and polyurethane (water- or solvent-based).
| Finish | Look | Repairability | Typical upkeep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Penetrating oil | Natural, matt, "in the wood" | Spot repairs possible | Regular maintenance oil |
| Hardwax oil | Natural, slightly more protective surface | Spot repairs possible | Maintenance products and periodic refresh |
| Water-based polyurethane | Clear, low yellowing, matt to gloss | Usually whole-area recoat | Screen and recoat when worn |
| Solvent-based polyurethane | Warm amber tone, hard film | Usually whole-area recoat | Screen and recoat when worn |
Read the full comparison in oil vs polyurethane. On stairs and in commercial projects, check slip-resistance needs – the finish determines the slip rating (SlipTest); see slip resistance on timber stairs.
Applying the finish
Apply the number of coats, at the spread rate and with the drying times the finish maker specifies. In general:
- Test patch – especially with stains or coloured oils.
- First coat / sealer – some systems use a specific sealer to control colour and grain raising.
- De-nib between coats with a fine abrasive pad as specified.
- Further coats to the specified build.
- Cure before use – light traffic, furniture and rugs each have separate wait times. Rugs usually wait longest.
Sanding herringbone and chevron vs straight boards
Pattern floors have no single grain direction, so the sanding approach differs from straight boards.
| Straight boards | Herringbone / chevron | |
|---|---|---|
| Main passes | Along the boards, with the grain | Diagonally or as the sander maker recommends for parquet |
| Cross-grain scratches | Avoided by sanding with the grain | Unavoidable on some blocks – removed in later passes |
| Final pass | Drum or belt, then edger | Multi-disc or orbital common to remove directional marks |
| Visibility of marks | Lower | Higher – especially under oil or stain |
Health, safety and the site
- Dust – fine timber dust is a health hazard; use sanders with extraction and appropriate respiratory protection.
- Fire – oil-soaked rags can self-heat and ignite; follow the finish maker's disposal instructions.
- Ventilation – coatings release vapours while curing; ventilate as the product requires.
- Access – plan how people will move around the house while rooms are out of use.
Common mistakes
| Mistake | Result |
|---|---|
| Sanding before adhesive cures | Loose blocks, broken bond |
| Skipping grits | Visible scratches under the finish |
| Leaving adhesive on the face | Blotchy patches under oil |
| Over-sanding edges | Dips around the perimeter |
| Mixing products from different finish systems | Poor adhesion, peeling |
| Laying rugs too early | Marked or uneven finish |
Refinishing an existing oak floor
A worn but sound floor may only need a screen and recoat; a damaged or grey floor needs a full sand. Oiled floors can often be refreshed with maintenance oil without sanding. Because Timbo's parquet is 18mm solid, there is plenty of timber for future full sands. For day-to-day care, see oak floor care and maintenance.
Homeowners: a Timbo partner can quote supply, installation and finishing together.
Sources
Frequently asked questions
How soon after laying can new parquet be sanded?
Once the adhesive has cured enough for sanding, as set out on the adhesive maker's data sheet. Sanding too early can break the bond or shift blocks. Temperature and humidity affect cure time.
Why is my sanded parquet showing swirl marks or scratches?
Usually from skipping grits, sanding too aggressively across the grain on a pattern floor, or not removing scratches from the previous grit before moving on. Oils and stains make scratches more visible than clear coatings.
Should knots and gaps be filled before finishing an oak floor?
Often, yes. Open knots and small gaps are usually filled with a filler compatible with the finish, commonly mixed with fine dust from the same floor so the colour matches. Some clients prefer open knots for a rustic look. Check that the filler suits the finish system.
What is a screen and recoat?
A light abrade of the existing finish – not a full sand back to bare timber – followed by a fresh coat. It refreshes a worn but undamaged polyurethane floor at much lower cost, and preserves timber.
Is sanding a timber floor dusty?
Modern sanders with good dust extraction capture most dust, but some always escapes. Seal off other rooms, remove soft furnishings and expect the room to be out of use during sanding and coating.
Should a new parquet floor be stained?
It's a design choice. Stains and tinted oils can change oak to anything from white-washed to near-black. Always ask for a sample patch on the actual floor, because the same stain looks different on different batches and grades.